Hi, Dave here again. Continuing my account/tutorial of the construction of my Warhound with the first round of alterations I made to the kit. This covers all the main structural changes I made to fit my vision for the model, and to try and get ahead of some balance issues I was anticipating before I started to put the whole thing together.
One thing I didn’t mention last time was how this model is going to be used. As I don’t actually play 40k I’m approaching this as a display model, but a robust one. I have no desire to have this thing fall apart on me. I won’t be worrying about magnetizing anything for loadout options though.
One note: As I didn’t take photos until after I finished the basic build, some of these will look out of order. I’m posting these steps in the order that I did them, so if you see pictures of finished legs, don’t panic, you didn’t miss anything! That’s coming up in part 3.
As you can see, there’s no indication of a head. About 3 months ago, after my kit first arrived, I’d started building an alternate head (See here) which happily still fit the fiction. It’s scratchbuilt out of various bits of pipe and ball bearings, but it’s already primed, so by way of a tutorial, I’ll build something similar and document that.Deep breath, and start cutting.
I’m going to skip the basic stuff and skip to the customization. Assembling the torso pieces was all done with 2 part epoxy and brass rod for reinforcement. You can see some of the rod entry holes in these pictures if you look closely.
So first up, I changed the center of rotation for the torso. I filled the existing hole with Alumilite resin, which cures fast, and then drilled a new, smaller hole further forward.
As you can see in the image I also sawed off the arm sockets and re-mounted them at 90 degrees and further back. I then puttied over the stump with magicsculpt/greenstuff mixed about 70/30. Easier to sand but still a bit sticky.
The arm sockets are secured in their new positions using JBWeld and a piece of 1/8″ brass rod. I haven’t tidied these connections up yet; I plan on running some cables from the red area so I’ll probably install some sockets using brass tube. TheseWith the new, smaller mounting hole for the waist drilled, I then sawed off the corresponding peg on the hip section and added an angled spacer using pvc pipe and resin. Once that was cured I drilled another hole and used a piece of 5/8″ copper pipe to build a new peg. This also let me install some magnets in the peg to add a little more security to the connection. While this isn’t for gaming, it’s handy to be able to break the model down. I haven’t installed the corresponding magnets in the torso section yet, but the fit is so tight already, it’s not urgent.
New ArmsThese went through a couple of revisions; firstly an extension of the existing design using copper pipe. This was almost the right length, but the change in orientation of the sockets meant the weapons never sat level. So for version two I bit the bullet and designed something a little more complex with a right-angle in it. Materials consist of various bits of PVC and brass tubing, a 25mm base and some ball-bearings.
While they’re not quite complete (I need to sand the crossbar down to depth and add some hoses) I’m happy with the overall design. Later when I’m addressing new armor plates for the build, I’ll build an armor plate for this piece.
And that’s it for Part 2. All the major structural changes are complete; now I can safely start to figure out the final posing and assemble the beast! See you in Part 3.